Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Spy

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'Smell that air,' said Major Mann.

I sniffed. 'I can't smell anything,' I said.

'That's what I mean,' said Mann. He scratched himself and grinned. 'Great, isn't it?'

There's not much to smell when you are one thousand miles into, the Algerian Sahara; not much to smell, not much to do, not much to eat.

For those travellers who know the swimming-pools and air conditioning of the government hotels along the northern edge of the Sahara, Adrar comes as a shock. Here the hotel has no more than tightly drawn curtains to protect the tourist from the sun, and the staff have noisy arguments about who should siesta on the cold stone floor of the entrance hall. Only Europeans stayed awake all day, notably four bearded Austrians who, night and day, played cards in the shuttered dining-room. They were waiting for a replacement petrol pump for their truck. Between games they swigged sweet, warm cola drinks. There was no alcohol on sale, and smoking was frowned upon.

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